Archive for the ‘Tjeckien – Czech Republic’ Category

Leaving Scorpio Villas

On May 23rd, I left Scorpio villas by car heading for the airport of Mombasa. The trip took more or less three hours and during these boring hours I was thinking of all nice people I had met at Scorpio, the wonderful couple who own the place – Sara and Simone Mancini, their lovely children – Lorenzo, Luca and little Chiara, Anderson who was responsible for my bungalow, the man who looked after the pool and Andy the barman. Patrick Kalume from Aberdeen and Marian and Frank Swift from London. I will miss all of them.



Flying back to Europe

From Mombasa to Nairobi it took one hour to fly and then I had to sit at the airport in Nairobi for many hours to wait for the flight to Zurich, which took seven hours. Early in the morning on the 24th, I arrived in Switzerland and it was easy to find the terminal where I had to wait for the connection to Prague. That flight took one hour and at 9.30 I was in Prague.

It was in Prague we had started our voyage in December 2010 and it was in Prague that we finished the first five months of 2011.


Early morning, the 24th of May

We had booked a room in a hotel with the name Kampa, which is located in Kampa Park in the heart of Prague. I was very tired when I arrived and was therefore grateful when I was offered a room almost immediately so I could sleep because I had not slept at all during the flight, which took place during the night.


Kampa hotel has a lovely location in Kampa Park

When I woke up late in the afternoon Anders had arrived and he was sitting outside in the garden waiting for me to wake up and we had a couple of beers and discussed what to do during the week we were going to spend in Prague. The location of hotel Kampa is excellent, namely in Kampa park and the weather was lovely, warm and sunny and all flowers and trees were blossoming and the beer was as good as it always is in Prague. What more could we wish? Kampa Park enclosed here.





Holesovice market

Seven days pass quickly. We went to the market in Holesovice by tram because we had to buy a new luggage. After a lot of travelling two luggages had been completely worn out. We had a nice meal in an Asian restaurant at the market and we stayed there for a couple of hours. We also found a luggage that we both liked and at the airport on our way home we left the old luggage empty to somebody who wants it.


The pub “U Cerneho Vola”

A visit to the pub U Cerneho Vola is a must when in Prague so we took tram number 22 to get there. The pub is situated close to the Prague castle and to the Swedish Embassy. You can see a photo of us when we were sitting at the pub. I have written about this pub earlier in my blog.



Meeting a good friend

We also met our good friend Anna Cerna in Prague and we went with her to have lunch in a very nice restaurant in Kampa Park by the name of Nostitz and the food was really nice there. We had asparagus with hollandaise sauce and smoked salmon and thereafter we ordered hot raspberries with ice cream and we had a nice Czech wine with this lovely food and it was really fine to meet Anna again and to listen to what she had been doing during the last year and to hear about her four grandchildren – two boys and two girls – and her two daughters.


“Kachna” – duck and Apfelstrudel for lunch

Every day we went to different places like another pub by the name “U Pinkasu” at the Jungmannova square and we went to have lunch in a small restaurant close to Vaclavske Namesti. The restaurant has the same name as the street where it is located – “Provacnicka” and it is in the proper centre of Prague. They have lovely food there and we had “kachna” which is duck in Czech. It is served with red or white cabbage and most people have it with dumplings but we prefer potatoes. We had “Apfelstrudel” and coffee with cherry wine after the main dish and could hardly move from the table when we had finished our meal. The portions are very big and generous.


Malteske namesti is a beautiful square in Mala Strana

One day we went for a walk in Mala Strana around Malteske Namesti, which is a beautiful square with many small restaurants and cafés and another day we want to Namesti Republiky, and then we walked back to our hotel, which took us forty minutes or more. At the old town square it was hardly possible to walk because there were big groups of tourists who had come to Prague for sightseeing and all of them visit the same places so sometimes it is very crowded in the centre of the town and most of the time I try to avoid these herds of people because I have already visited the places they are visiting and I would never join a big group like that led by a guide anyhow. I would feel like a sheep led by a shepherd.


Back home the 30th of May

Time passes quickly when you are having a good time and soon it was Monday and time for us to go back home and in the evening of May 30th we landed at the airport of Copenhagen and then we took a train to Lund and came home at around seven. We were met by our grandchild Philippa who helped us to carry our luggage and for the first time in five months I slept in my own bed and enjoyed it. Our bed is big, cosy and comfortable.


The market place in Lund

The next morning I took out my bike and cycled to the market where I bought asparagus and strawberries and baby potatoes and then I cycled back home and cooked a lovely meal. I also bought heering, something we always miss when we are somewhere else. The heering we eat with raw onions and it is delicious, especially if it is served with sour creme. Now it is very nice weather here, warm and sunny and people are outside most of the time and enjoy the company of friends and relatives. It is nice to be able to cycle around in a green town with many parks and a nice market place where we can buy all the vegetables and fruits of the season.


Future travel – going to Berlin to meet a friend

We have found all our things and unpacked everything and are slowly adapting to this kind of life, but soon I shall be leaving for Berlin, where I am going to visit my friend Mechthild Flohr who lives in Potsdam and I am very much looking forward to meet her and will stay with her for a week. The distance from here to Berlin is only 300 kilometres so it takes less than an hour to arrive there by flight. In Potsdam I will visit a famous castle by the name of “Sans souci”, in German “Ohne Sorgen” and it was built by Federic II of Prussia in the 18th century during the period which is called “The enlightment”. Voltaire used to spend a lot of time at the court of Federic II and is supposed to have said that German is a language for soldiers and horses. However, I do not agree.



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Lund October the 18th 2010

Plans for the the near future

Also this winter season we will escape the cold and already before the New Year we will go to Prague to spend a week there before we will be leaving for Kenya.

Yes East Africa again. We will spend the winter in the island of Lamu in the north of Kenya and we have already booked and paid our flights. We found tickets at the Internet for more or less 7000 Swedish crowns per person from Prague to Mombasa.

After a week in Prague, we will leave Europe the 5th of January 2011. We will leave Prague for Zürich where we will spend one night. Early the next morning we will be heading for Nairobi. It takes one entire day to fly to Nairobi from Europe and when we arrive, there will be no flights for Mombasa, so we must spend one night in Nairobi as well. The third day in the morning we will continue our flight and arrive in Mombasa. And then it will be the 7th of January. It takes only one hour to Mombasa.


I have started to read about Mombasa on the Internet. Soon I shall buy “Lonely Planet” and dig deeper.

In my own bookshelf I have also found the classic book about Africa written by Basil Davidson so I have started to read about East Africa after Vasco da Gama and about the Swahili culture, which is quite thrilling.

Mombasa has half a million inhabitants and is the second biggest town in Kenya, an important harbour. It has been nominated an UNESCO World Heritage town. We will spend three nights there in a hotel called “The Royal Castle”.


After that we will be going by bus and ferry boat to the island of Lamu, which is one of the islands, the biggest, in an archipelago close to the border of Somalia. We will stay in a place called Subira House, where we have rented an apartment. You can see Subira House at the Internet.

The biggest town on the island is called Stone Town and here live 15000 people and 7000 donkeys. There is only one car on the island, belonging to the mayor. There is also a tractor, used to collect the garbage. Stone Town is situated right at the Indian Ocean.

Stone Town has been under Muslim rule and that is why the inhabitants are Muslims. Women do not reveal their bodies.


The island is not very big. To walk to a white sandy beach with palm trees takes about 50 minutes from town. However, it is also possible to go there by boat. The sails of the boats are very beautiful.

Close to Subira House where we are going to live there is a big market place where they sell a lot of things. The culture of this island – as well as the culture of Zanzibar is a mixture of many cultures, mainly the Swahili and Muslim.


We are very much looking forward to spend this winter in such a paradise and will not come back to Europe until the end of May. In the meantime, we will communicate with our friends and relatives at the blog with the address https://globalkitchens.wordpress.com/.

We would appreciate your comments at our blog and we will write both in English and Swedish.

This picture is from Ponta d´Ouro in Mozambique where we spent
a couple of weeks around Easter 2010. The lady between us is
Heike from Colonia. She is a boss at a restaurant called Fish Monga.
One of the few in the village who is connected to the Internet.


This picture is taken when crossing the strait between the
peninsula of Maputo and the mainland. I have never seen
such crowd in any ferry before. Many drivers were drinking
alcohol during the trip so we were quite amazed.


This picture is from the market in Maputo.
I bought the lobster and gave it a name, Pedro, then took
it home and boiled it in white wine and served it on a bed
of ice cubes. Do I need to tell you that it was delicious?


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I Tjeckien träffas folk på ölstugan. Många har ett stambord som de besöker minst en gång i veckan. I varje by och på minsta ort finns en ölstuga, där man serverar lokalt öl och genuin ölstugemat. Ofta husmanskost av hög klass, klassiska rätter. I Prag är ölstugorna många men de riktigt genuina blir färre och färre. Där, liksom här, stänger man klassiska lokaler för att istället öppna frisersalonger och mondäna caféer.

Här ser vi en av kyparna på U cerneho vola

En av fyra ölstugor som jag anser vara genuina heter på tjeckiska
”U cernehó vola”. Detta betyder ”Den svarta oxen”. Varje gång jag kommer till Prag börjar jag min vistelse i staden på denna ölstuga. Ibland åker jag i min iver dit med bagaget direkt från flygplatsen. Så snart jag intagit min plats på en av bänkarna vid långborden kommer kyparen med den första halvlitersbägaren, en otroligt vackert upphälld öl med en skumtopp som heter duga. Ölsorten som jag dricker är Pilsner Urquell, en ljus öl från Plzen med 12 graders vörtstyrka. Ölen är helt perfekt tempererad – källarsval. Det tar mig tio minuter att avnjuta denna första öl och direkt därefter får jag nästa, som smakar minst lika gott om inte bättre. Denna andra öl avnjuter jag i lugnare tempo, liksom öl nummer fyra, fem och sex och vidare framåt. En öl ska drickas i sju klunkar säger tjeckerna, som är Europas skickligaste öldrickare.

Vid det svartmålade bordet finns plats för minst åtta personer. Oftast är alla platserna upptagna. De flesta som sitter där är tjecker från kvarteren kring den del av Prag som heter Hradcin, alltså borgområdet. Men det finns även folk som har promenerat hit eller tagit spårvagnen från andra delar av staden. Ölstugan är känd i staden och mycket populär.

Här är den viktigast personen på ölstugan, ölupphällaren

I guideböckerna nämns ölstugan och detta gör att även turisterna hittar hit, men många av dem vet inte hur ölen ska behandlas. Vissa sitter där en timme med en liten öl i handen. Kyparna är två eller tre som arbetar skift och någon ny personal ser man aldrig här. En man har till uppgift att hälla upp ölet. Han står hela dagarna vid ölkranen och häller upp. I köket arbetar en kvinna med maten. Nyckeln till damtoaletten hänger på en krok bakom mannen som häller upp öl.

På borden finns menyn, som fritt översatt lyder: Wienerkorv med senap, lunchkorv med senap, stekt ägg med skinka, ostar från Olomouc i olja, friterad ost med pommes frites och sås, sylta med lök och ättika. Till alla rätterna serveras rikligt med bröd, den klassiska tjeckiska surdegslimpan kryddad med kummin. Dessa rätter utgör den huvudsakliga menyn som skiftar från ställe till ställe, dock med en gemensam nämnare – att det är tjeckiska rätter av typen husmanskost.

Sist jag besökte Oxen var i november detta år och då hände en incident där, som gjorde folk upprörda. En grupp ungerska turister kom in och tog plats vid bordet. De fick in var sin öl och plötsligt såg vi hur en av dessa gäster låg med huvudet på bordet. Han var starkt berusad och snarkade högljutt. Kyparen kom och sade till sällskapet att avlägsna sig med omedelbar verkan. Istället bytte de bord, varför kyparen kom in och skällde ut sällskapet på genuin pragdialekt i höga ordalag. Inget hände och då grep ölupphällaren in. Han gick in och tog fatt i den berusade och kastade handgripligen ut honom och då fick de andra i sällskapet följa efter. Därefter blev det åter lugnt och konversationen fortsatte som vanligt i högljudda ordalag.

På varje bord står minst två enorma askfat som används flitigt av gästerna vid bordet. Väggdekorationerna består av målningar av adelsvapen. En del av dessa släkter utplånades under trettioåriga kriget men det är en annan historia…

Min danska väninna Birgit på ölstugan

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